I really like the sweet action of a wooden plane with its sole gliding on the wood in a way only a wooden plane can.
I made this small wooden block plane as I really wanted to make a plane that I would actually use. Most of the metal planes turn out so nice that I hardly dare use them. The 3-mm thick iron (O1) is bedded at a 37 degree angle with the bevel down. This makes the cutting angle equivalent to the one on my Lie-Nielsen no. 100 (12 degrees bevel up). Reversing the iron (bevel up) makes the cutting angle 62 degrees to tackle difficult grain: two planes in one! The body is olive wood, 140 mm long. I really like olive wood, it is so dense and close-grained, when oiled it feels like silk.
This is the first plane I made (shown with one of my violin maker's planes). It's made out of reclaimed quarter-sawn oak with a rosewood sole.
To me this is a wooden plane, despite the brass sides, as its sole is ebony, which makes it feel like a wood plane. All planes contain some metal (the iron) and most have wooden handles, so there is always some level of ambiguity. The knob inside the handle makes it possible to gently bend the blade, just like you would when using a cabinet scraper.
Because of the difficult woods I use, I wanted to make a high-angle smoother. The iron is bedded at 60 degrees so planing requires more effort, but tear-out is much reduced. The body is a combination of jatoba and alder. Actually the thin stripe of alder was due to a mistake: I forgot to allow for some extra width of the central block. This was remedied by inserting a thin piece of alder. Luckily, the contrast works really well. For extra comfort I also added a small alder handrest.
The wedge is oak and is held in place by a threaded knob. I cut the knob from a solid 9 mm sheet of brass and hard-soldered it to a piece of threaded rod. The heat from the soldering severely oxidised the brass giving it a very nice appearance, I think.